When it comes to starting your own fashion label there is plenty of advice
and information to find online. A simply search in google will reveal the
steps needed to launch your own brand, and a four-part guide in Wikihow
even illustrates the process.
But if only it were so easy. Market guides, online tutorials, university
courses and all the money in the world can’t guarantee success in the
fashion industry. A sound idea for a brand that can differentiate itself in
a crowded marketplace is a difficult task, as is finding a balance between
commerce and creativity, but more on that later.
Having a strong identity and knowing who your customer is, is vital in the
early stages of setting up. Ask yourself ‘what is my brand’s usp (unique
selling point)?’ and what would you like to achieve? Where does the brand
sit in relation to other brands in stores?
A strong concept is key to success
The idea for my brand came whilst on holiday on a beach in Mexico, and the
vision was very clear; to create an everyday wardrobe of luxury streetwear.
Having a strong concept that can be seen in the product, translated via
marketing and sold to buyers is a winning formula, but one that many
startups struggle to achieve.
If we deconstruct a few current independent yet highly successful brands,
such as Acne, Marcelo Burlon’s County of Milan or James Perse, we can
deduce that having a go-to product is essential for consumers to understand
the brand. Acne was all about jeans when they first started, and the first
100 pairs they produced were given to friends and key influencers. Marcelo
Burlon is known for his illustrative streetwear and now has an entire tribe
of followers. James Perse offers surf-inspired t-shirts in neutral colours
and his tees are a global success story. What these brands have in common
is an instantly recognisable product which started with a simple formula of
a few key styles with a unique selling point. Having one main product
category makes it easier for you, the creator; for the buyers to understand
the brand in order to sell it in their stores; for the media to communicate
who you are; and ultimately for the customer to buy into it.
People need a reason to buy your clothes
In the digital age brand identity is almost as important as the product
itself. Consumers have too much choice – the high street is saturated with
fashion brands – people need a reason to buy your clothes, whether that is
based on what they see in the media, what celebrities they identify with,
what their peers wear, or what they can afford. With the power of social
media there is every opportunity to get your message out, but the message
must be strong, it must resonate and make an impact and most of all it must
be clear.
Finite resources would make launching your label easier, but for the
majority is unrealistic. What is realistic is to budget for the first four
seasons, or two years, that you will not be drawing a salary, and every
penny will be going back into the business. As your brand grows, so will
your costs, and in addition to your initial set-up costs you will need to
finance your sampling and production.
As your brand grows, so will your costs
Fashion is a volatile industry. One of the reasons many brands fail in the
first three years is that there are so many facets involved and you will
come to understand very quickly that it is impossible to do everything on
your own. Many run out of resources or struggle with the very demanding
fashion calendar. Aside from having the creative and commercial acumen, you
will be relying on fabric suppliers, factories, seamstresses, pattern
makers, shipping companies, trim suppliers and that is just to get your
first samples made.
With so many influencers a million things can go wrong, and they always do.
An example: in my second menswear season my factory used the wrong thread
type on my sample collection (polyester thread instead of cotton thread).
Polyester thread doesn’t dye, but who knew to check? When the samples
returned from the dye house two days before London Fashion Week all the
coloured garments had white threading as it hadn’t taken the colour.
Needless to say the pieces looked dreadful. With LFW just days away you
have no choice but to show your collection as is.
As a designer, you are constantly relying on others to assist in having
your collections produced. Knowing there are so many intricate facets and
anticipating where things can go wrong, will put you one step ahead. What
you must do from day one is build key relationships with your suppliers and
factories as this will be instrumental to your initial success.
Next up: Part II – How to set up your business
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